Windy Gyle to Kirk Yetholm

Jeri’s Steps: 39,389
Miles walked: 15.9
Elevation: 3,215 (max!)
Pints: 3
Churches: none
Stiles: 2
Benches: 2

Into Scotland!

Somewhere on the Cheviots

Yesterday’s march down the hill from Windy Gyle to meet our B&B host meant that today we had to do it in reverse. It was a grueling hour long climb back up. Not the best way to start the final day. On the summit we were in the clouds again, though it was not as thick as Cross Fell a week ago. But it was, well, windy. From there we descended through bogs, lost our way on the wrong side of the fence at one point and climbed up to King’s Seat and then Auchope cairn. The latter was very much like Cross Fell without the rain; the mist was thick and the wind was very cold; we sat down on some rocks to get out of the worst of it but were too cold and so decided to start down the scree slope. To our right as we came down, the enormously steep canyon of Hen Hole came into view.

We had the feeling that the Pennine Way was determined to not let us forget this final day and was in some way trying to extract revenge for us daring to leave it. The sun from yesterday was completely absent, replaced by a grim covering of low cloud and forcing us to walk up into the mist on every summit. We were cold too and soon had our rain gear on to protect us with another layer. Perhaps the highlight of the day, in the absence of any views, was having our lunch in the mountain rescue hut at Auchope. Just to be out of the wind was good enough but our lunch salad of quinoa, feta, and broccoli seemed more Santa Monica Boulevard than Cheviot and a welcome change from sandwiches. Finally we faced our final hill; ‘The Schil ’. A big pimple of a mountain which although daunting was a relatively quick steep ascent on the south side. Once out of the clouds on the way down we could see our escape route, ‘the low alternative’ and followed a mostly grassy footpath down to Old Halterburnhead, Burnhead and Halterburn before reaching the road. But the Way had one final sting; a short steep hill immediately before reaching Kirk Yetholm.

And so we had done it. Somewhat heady, we entered the bar of the Border Hotel for our free half pint and Pennine Way certificate. Didn’t they realize we’d come much further than that? 636 miles to be exact? No matter, tomorrow we do not walk.

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17 Responses

  1. True Pennine Way weather for the last day. Love the pic with the giant Tunnock’s wafer ! Was the free half pint beer or that strange Scottish stuff they call “Heavy” ?!
    Congratulations again – see you soon.

  2. Congratulations, Tim and Jeri! What an amazing accomplishment. I am not sure what I will do when I get to work in the mornings now that I won’t have your blog to start the day off with!
    My son and I started a long walk off in Kirk Yetholm in 2015, so this post brought back some special memories for me. Thank you!
    Enjoy your very well earned rest, and I too will be anxiously awaiting the next phase of your adventure.
    All the best from Alberta, Canada!!

  3. Woo hoo – Congratulations! Well done, you two!! Quite the accomplishment. Enjoy your rest and reflection time — you did it, 636 miles and part 1 COMPLETE!!

  4. The weather looks tough on this leg. Glad to see the smiles. Enjoy the time (and the pint). Congratulations!

  5. What an amazing adventure!! So very happy for you. Can’t wait to have you home again. We are all missing you.
    Once again, congratulations. ♥️♥️

  6. Was really lovely to meet you both by the giant Tunnocks! Izzy is chuffed to bits to see the photo she took of you both made the cut for your blog!!
    Hope you enjoyed that free half pint, although you look like you deserved a bigger drink than that!!
    Good luck for your return to complete part two!!
    Best wishes from the Whitehead family 😃

    1. Thanks so much Helen! We are resting up now, trying not to think about Part 2. Izzy has a future as a photographer!

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